Scotland expedition - 3 Star (Sea) Assessment becomes 5 Star standard!
By Caoimhe Connor
Level 5 Coach (Sea) Mike McClure, Sport Northern Ireland’s Outdoor Recreation Officer based at Tollymore NOC, for some time, has been running Tuesday night sea kayaking in his own time for enthusiastic paddlers. Each week he sends out an email detailing were we are going, weather and tides forecast and he also puts together a points system were people get points for turning up and paddling. In April, I received the first email with the details of the Tuesday nights. I thought it would be good fun to get more experience in sea kayaking, as I had only been out a few times. I went along and really enjoyed it. However, I then became quite competitive when I saw that I progressed to silver position in the points system. A few months passed and as a reward for being in silver place, Mike offered me a place on the Scotland expedition which I couldn’t turn it down – not only for the experience of an expedition but to keep my place on the score board.
On Friday 14th September I headed off to Scotland with Mike and Ashley Teague for my first sea kayaking expedition, for 4 days during which I would also be assessed for my 3 Star sea kayak award by Mike. I went knowing that it would be pretty full on, as the weather forecast was not great. Therefore, I was a little apprehensive to say the least, not knowing exactly what to expect, along with the constant doubts - have I forgotten any vital kit?
Day 1
After a good days travelling from Belfast to Oban we finally set off onto the water in Cuan which is just South of Oban at 7.30pm after much difficulty learning how not to pack a sea kayak! We decided to take it easy and make a short trip over to Torsa Island and set up camp where the boys showed me how camping food should be done – none of this pasta ‘n’ sauce malarkey!
Day 2
The adventures begins – Mike set off early to meet a few guys from the Isle of Man who would be paddling with us for a few the days (Keirron, George and Rebecca). Ashley and I headed off from Torsa after I packed my sea kayak a little more successfully and had a great view of an otter right beside us. We met up with the others along Luing Island where we paddled to Scarba to empty the boats and set up camp.
After some lunch we went to (Bealach a’Choin Ghlais) The Grey Dogs – which I could hear it way before I could see it. We then hit the corner of Scarba where I then could see the Grey Dogs which were massive standing waves. Mike calmly, tells me while we watch the waves rumble up and down in a comfortable eddy that they are the equivalent to a grade 4/5 rapid on a river! If I was not nervous already, I definitely was now. George was straight into the waves and as I watched he disappeared, then reappeared briefly to be gone again in an instant. He then reappeared at the end of the waves paddling back into the eddy.
Mike then said ‘Right Caoimhe follow me, we will just paddle into the edge of the Grey Dogs.’ Before I could say no / yes / WHAT - he said ‘Follow my line!’ and was off. I had no time to think about what I was going into, or what I wanted to do, all I could do was follow. I paddled off and before I could back out of it, I was in the fast flowing water watching the massive standing waves get closer, and then I realised, for the first time kayaking, I was afraid of what might happen as I paddled into the unexpected. I hit the first wave, which felt like it was 3 metres above me and before I knew it I was hitting the next wave which seemed to be even bigger. As I paddled over it the next thing I saw was an immense black hole in the middle of the waves. I don’t know what I did or how I did it, but I got out the other side of the Grey Dog’s alive! I had an amazing feeling of adrenaline running through my body and relief as I made my way back to the eddy. I ran it a second time, feeling a little more confident but still very nervous.
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| Caoimhe - The Grey Dogs |
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| Caoimhe |
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| Rebecca and Kieran |
After the guys played about in the Grey Dogs some more, we decided to head off down the West side of Lunga and then over to Fladda. The swell and wind was pretty intense, but then what would you expect on a 3 star assessment? We paddled to Belnahua and had a look around the island. It was interesting as there was at least 5 derelict houses where people had once lived to quarry slate. In the middle of the island there was a massive hole dug to sea level, filled with water.
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| Belnahua |
We launched off the island and headed South past the east side of Lunga where we had our final play of the day in the Grey dogs. The tide had changed and this made a huge difference in the sea conditions compared to hours later and the water now just boiled on the surface, which was far less intimidating. I practiced my ferry gliding and getting my sweep stroke perfected. After an hour of play it was definitely time for another tasty dinner – camping will never be the same.
Day 3
At 9.30am the forecast was predictably horrendous (as it had been for the previous 2 days). The boys and I decided that we would sit it out for a while – so we had a few gallons of tea and by 11ish we were on the water to see if we could prove the forecast wrong! We headed off for a big touring day down through the Grey Dogs again (which thankfully were slack), past Eilean Dubh Mór and Dubh Beag where I saw a lovely seal.
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| Can you spot the seal? |
We paddled against the wind to The Garvellachs (4 beautiful islands way to the west of the Sound of Luing), stopping for lunch on the main Garbh Eiliech island where it poured with rain (surprise, surprise) but to make up for it, we did lunch in style – warm nans and cheese!
Off we went again on up through the islands taking a historical stop off at the best known island of the Garvellachs – Eileach an Naoimh. Here, the ruined remains of an ancient Celtic monastery believed to have been founded by St Brendan in 542 AD can be seen. Due to its remoteness, the ruins are well preserved however, that doesn’t stop the great people form “Historic Scotland” from coming onto this stunning island to cut the grass to perfection.
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| Eileach an Naoimh |
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| Surfing the waves |
We then headed back to Scarba for our last evening on the island under the tarp for some dinner and lots more tea.
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| Mike, Ashley and Kieran – Under the tarp! |
Day 4
Tents were packed away, breakfast was done and we were on the water for 9.30am to catch the tide down to Réisa Mhic Phaidean, as yet again we had a great forecast of wind and rain. The wind caused some difficulty for final mile across to the island but we were keen to go to play in the Dorus Mór tide race and on our travels we saw our first and last dolphin of the trip. After a challenging morning (with my arms losing more and more strength as the days went on) we decided to ferry glide across to Garbh Réisa, the island south of the Dorus Mór were we had lunch and got some rest in the never-ending rain and wind.
Setting off we warmed up in some of the gentle flow of the Dorus Mór before embarking on her tremendous waves. Mike and I then took the tide up through the waves that Ashley, Kieran and George were surfing. After getting used to the flow, I decided I would surf some of the waves. It was incredible surfing the waves down through the tide and going out into the eddy every now and again for a rest. After a few runs my arms were busted and we decided to head for our next camp site which I knew would be a good run.
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| Mike surfing |
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| Caoimhe and Ashley surfing |
Paddling back towards Réisa Mhic Phaidean we had a lot of swell - would we have it any other way? Of course not! Then we met an eddy that ran the opposite direction from the main tide that was meant to be flowing with us. Well this was a challenge for my lacking arms as I tried to power the boat to the island. The force of the flow was too much and unfortunately turned my boat round. I tried a second time and thankfully succeeded in getting to the island. Feeling absolutely wrecked we paddled out into the main flow in the Sound of Luing. I was definitely starting to feel the past 3 days efforts of paddling as I battled against wind towards Fladda. A nautical mile from Fladda the weather man was definitely out to get us with a huge squall coming in from the West with gale force winds and torrential rain battering us. At one stage I thought we would never get to Fladda for a rest but I paddled the hardest I could to get to the shore, where we found shelter and I put on extra layers to try and heat up.
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| George, Ashley, Caoimhe and Kieran sheltering from the storm on Fladda |
Well, I left Fladda thinking, that has to be the hard work all over – but was I mistaken! Heading for Cuan Sound I had great fun paddling in a big swell and as I started to heat up, my arms (although still knackered) were working reasonably well, considering they had never paddled so much in their lives. When we hit Cuan Sound the tide was still running against us for another hour so Mike advised we could use the eddy’s to get the Isle of Man guys back to Cuan to head home and we’d head to our next camp site on Torsa. Mike led me on the first break through the tidal flow into the eddy, coaching me not to let the bow turn into the flow. I used my perfected sweep strokes and somehow got through. Into our second break out and Ashley took the lead, it was going to be a lot longer in the flow this time, I watched Ashley carefully and how he handled his boat. He made it through, it was now my turn. I set off and a massive wave came pushing me onto the rocks, I did a draw stroke to move away from the rock and then another wave hit and my boat went further up the rock – at this moment I thought, ‘Oh no, I’m going to wreck the boat and Tollymore will never loan me one again!’ A wave came and I did several draw strokes, a million forward strokes and sweep strokes, till finally I got to the eddy! It was pretty epic, and a big relief to get to the eddy. We said our fair wells the Isle of Man guys and set off looking for more eddies which luckily became a lot easier.
That evening I was so glad to get the camp site. My shoulders blades felt like they had tennis balls stuck in them and the muscles in my arms ached. On the bright side the sun came out for a good hour, so we could put up our tents and dry off our gear a little before the next shower set in, but by then the tarp was up and we were eating another glorious dinner.
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| Torsa |
Day 4
It was our last day for packing up our tents and sea kayaks, and it was the finale of my epic 3 Star assessment. We headed out into the bay where Mike capsized in his fully laden boat and I did a rescue (and man is it hard to empty a full boat) – after sometime I at last emptied the boat and got Mike back into his boat. I then did an Eskimo rescue with Mike rescuing me and the finale - my roll. Surprisingly, it was easier than expected with a fully packed boat. Mike then congratulated me on getting my 3 Star. I must say it’s the best assessment I’ve ever been on, so much adrenaline and excitement. I can’t wait to see what my 4 Star (Sea) Assessment will be like.
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| Ashley – Atlantic Bridge, Oban |
Thinking that was the trip over, we packed up and headed for the ferry at Troon. When on the ferry to Larne, Mike and Ashley met an old friend who works on the ferries and he invited us up to the bridge were we looked at the radars and how the captain drives the ferry. I must say, these lads know how to do sea navigation.
In my opinion, this is how trips should be done – lots of excitement, adrenaline, muscle ache, learning and fun!! If someone had of told me last year I would be kayaking in rough sea conditions, I would have laughed. I’m amazed I actually did it and got through the trip without a swim – although I’ll probably get into the gym before the next trip. It’s without doubt an expedition and assessment I won’t be forgetting in a hurry.
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| Enjoying the waves J |
